Wadda YOU Call It?

A spider is, in and of itself, an unusual thing to deliberately add to a foodservice establishment.   What bugs me is when there are several different “species” on the menu…

Spiders, Spatulas and Speed racks, oh my!  What images do they convey?  If you’re a baker, (AKA a “Dough Hoe”) they might conjure up visions of the fryer skimmers, icing knives and sheet pan racks. A restaurateur could easily imagine them as table bases, burger turners and liquor bottle holders.

Another critter that creeps into most commercial kitchens is the salamander.  The historical one, which originally looked like a metal peel, doesn’t at all resemble the unit that might be a cheese-melter on steroids, or could be a steak-house broiler on a break. 

And speaking of peels, can you distinguish between a make-up and take-out? Aren’t they really a shovel and/or a spatula?

The dough scraper is also a pan scraper, bench scraper, and even a dough divider (although that term may lead us to the mechanical Promised Land).

Does a china cap ever appear in an Asian kitchen?  And what makes a chinoise different from it?  I’m straining here, as I’ve become enmeshed in a fine point.

I’m also wracking my brain trying to distinguish amongst the various wire-rack shelves, bun-pan racks (or are they trolleys?), pot racks, speed racks, wine racks, baker’s racks, raconteurs and racketeers that have been known to rack up hours in foodservice kitchens.  If you’re looking for a drying rack, look no further than an icing grate for a bun pan (sheet pan).

I’ve often tried to take a pass on the window by referring to it as a double over-shelf on the chef’s – er, front – line. The cooking – er, back - line should never be confused with the cook’s line which may or may not be a prep-line.

The multitude of traditions present in our modern foodservice environments illustrates the millennia of cross-pollinations in food preparation and serving.  We shouldn’t be surprised that many common items will have different names, as their usage and ethnic etymology would dictate. It is also clear that the diversity of cuisines has spawned the convergence of terminology in this polyglot environment. 

From classical French terms, to the lingua franca of whichever immigrant ethnic group is currently manning the back–of-the-house, we’ve developed a rich and colorful vernacular in foodservice.

Let’s celebrate the diversity of our culinary melting pot.  Or was that a sauce-pan?

Grill Me

The story you are about to read is true. The names have been changed to project the innovative.

It was February 27, 2012; we were working the night watch on the barbecue detail. My partner's Eddy Pitco. My name is Fry-Day. Grill Sergeant Joe Fry-Day. It was 2:06 PM when we got a call from a cook in distress. She needed help with a problem. A cooking problem.

"I need a Char-Broiler."

"Uh-huh."

"A 4 foot char-broiler."

3: 58 PM, Eddy and I drove over to the restaurant and we talked to the owner. We intended to grill her over why she wanted a char-broiler.

"Grill Sergeant?"

"Yes, ma'am?"

"What's the source of the smoky flavor from a char broiler?"

"Just the fats, ma'am."

Considered one of the most flavorful ways of cooking, grilling can be done indoors or out. There are many choices in grilling equipment. The char-grill (not to be confused with "grille", an architectural term) can be gas, solid fuel, or some combination of these. Electric is not prevalent in the commercial world.

Mistakenly referred to as "barbecues" in the northeast, and also known as "under-fired broilers" (due to the location of the heat source), these units are anything but under-fired! They are hot, hot, hot. There are several options to make them hotter still. Cast iron components, and higher Btu input equate with more heat to better sear the food and seal in its juices.

A bed of ceramic or lava rocks is typically laid out under the grilling surface, while the open flames are directed up from below. The stones are there to absorb and burn off the grease and drippings from the food. Metal bar stock, known as "radiants" alternatively take the place of the stones. A popular consumer brand calls these "flavorizer bars", due to the fact that they act in lieu of the rocks in creating the smoke that enthusiasts crave in grilled food.

Although burgers remain a contender for the most frequently char-broiled item, up-and-comers now include vegetables, whole fish, seafood, and of course the perennial favorite, steaks.

Connoisseurs will specify the size of the grill marks, a function of the rods or casting making up the cooking surface, and the spacing between them. Narrow spacing is preferred for fish and other delicate items. Chrome or cast iron are two other available options for the grids.

Heat can be harnessed from underneath the char broiler as well, with optional slide-out racks performing as bun toasters.

We humans have been grilling meats for approximately ½ million years. Cook-outs were popular even in classical times. Currently, controversy over the formation of certain compounds in the smoke competes with the claims of the health benefits of cooking with less shortening.

"Grill Sergeant?"

"Yes, ma'am?"

Can I install a char-broiler under my hood?

"That's right ma'am, only if it is executed in the manner prescribed by law"

                                              
How not to Grill

**Editor's Note: MagiKitch'n configures char-broilers for your every need.

www.pecinkaferri.com

Dysfunctional Discounts

Once upon a time in a land far, far away, there lived the enchanted Queen of the Foodservice Rebates.  One day, a plan was hatched to reward all of the brave knights of the realm (AKA dealer principals) for swearing their fealty to her - and to the factories that were part of her Buying Group Empire.  If the knights would exclusively (well, most of the time)  be pure of heart and not wander away from these factories for purchase and sale of equipment and supplies, they would, in addition to the plunder that they were accumulating during the year, be paid handsomely (rebated) at year end. They all lived happily ever after.

This, of course, is a fractured fairy tale.  In the E&S business, group purchasing has created a culture that relies almost solely on sheltered income for profits.  We have, in fact, wandered far into the enchanted forest of less than exclusive deals. Back in the mists of time, the various buying groups once touted mutual benefits for producers and distributors alike.  The producers got guaranteed payments in exchange for allegiance to the brand offerings within the construct.  The distributors got limited distribution in exchange for their fiscal prudence.

The enchanted Queen used her charms to convince all of the Cinderella dealers that they could compete at the ball with their larger and better capitalized ugly step-sisters.  This self-fulfilling prophecy came true, much to the dismay of all involved.  Be careful when you wish upon a star – you just might get what you wished for.  Artificially leveling the playing field has spawned many incongruities.

Many believe that if they don’t sell at (or below) cost, that someone else will. Specifications are written based upon BG affiliations which ill-serve the end-user. 

Slaying the E-commerce dragon also became a cause célèbre.  “Fill the moat with MAP (minimum advertised pricing) and MPP (minimum purchase pricing) dictates so that no-one can undercut us” cried the townsfolk. If only they knew what Pogo did: “We have met the enemy and he is us.”

We, in the foodservice equipment and supplies biz live in a fantasy world where demons and ogres are lurking around every corner. The true enemy is not our trading partner; it is a lack of fiscal discipline.  This is the same force that causes countless folks to rely on tax refunds as a forced savings plan – without accruing any interest or benefit!

Most business people would never give an interest free one year loan to anyone.  Yet that is what our dealers and distributors do every day.  They unsustainably sell at or close to net in order to drive volume, hoping that profits will eventually be realized at year-end in the form of a rebate. Unless all conditions are met, the payout is not even guaranteed.  

We’ve all created this situation where sheltered income is the only profits that we see.  Now we all need some magic to solve it together.

·        Factories must not absorb the freight costs on single unit shipments. 

·        Drop shipments from factories should be handled at a different discount rate than stock orders. 

·        Dealers must commit to training their sales staffs to compete on value rather than strictly on price. 

·        Local stock of E&S has to be encouraged. 

·        Prohibit reps and regional managers from facilitating the poaching of business outside of their marketing areas. 

·        MAP and MPP should be strictly enforced where they are in place. 

We can turn the tide on profit erosion, and in turn better serve our ultimate customers.  

The truth is that there are no villains here.  No monsters, no ogres, no wicked queens, just a legendary industry trying to survive and emerge stronger.

Making Succesful Concessions

Is it an impulse or a compulsion that makes you want to eat that soft pretzel? Or is it simply the tangy mustard pumped onto it? Displayed food must look its best when laid out for speed and convenience, even for captive audiences at arenas, stadiums and outdoor entertainment venues.

No matter whether concession fare is pretzels, hot dogs, popcorn or other fun foods, items must be held at the proper temperatures and the point of sale lighting should accentuate rather than detract from them. We’d rather look at the food than see the equipment that is holding it. People eat with their eyes first.

Menu board photos can only go so far to whet customers’ appetites and drive demand. An interesting exception to this exists in subway stations in South Korea. There, whole grocery stores are represented graphically and commuters can shop virtually via QR code readers on their cell phones. Here in the States, however, we prefer a less virtual experience during our grazing rituals.

Specialized equipment, such as roller grills, popcorn makers, cotton candy machines, hot food display cabinets and cup and condiment dispensers, along with its selection and layout, plays a key role in maximizing the limited space available in most concession environments.

Panini presses have made the leap “across the pond,” along with gyro machines, orange juice squeezers, cappuccino makers and gelato cases, adding an ethnic flair to even the tiniest of service points.

Hot fudge pumps can push out that tantalizing hot chocolaty goo through heated spouts; cup dispensers can speed service at busy stations. Heated merchandising cabinets, designed to keep foods warm, moist and appealing throughout service periods, help to cut down on waste and drive sales. Grills, fryers, equipment stands, soft serve machines and re-thermalizers all function to speed up the service of concession stands’ tasty treats to waiting (hopefully not too long) fans, concert goers and fair attendees. Napkin, straw and PC organizers function to keep counters neat and clean (able). Although the business opportunities are typically short and/or seasonal, concession stand snack bars can be a lucrative endeavor for owners and operators, and provide convenient pit stops for consumers.

With the possible exception of parkland venues, healthful and sustainable meal options have not been the norm at these grab ‘n go venues. However, salad bar selections, cup and/or frozen yogurt, soups and stews can often all be easily added to the offerings to please today’s more discriminating consumers. Savvy operators will also look to offer whole grain products to satisfy their more health-conscious customers.

Foodservice operators have come to expect big profits from small concession stands. Foodservice equipment and supplies professionals should work to create a seasonal bump in their sales when such stands open up each year.

Appeared in TSRMag

Joe Ferri

Posted by Joe Ferri on February 12, 2012 at 8:00am

View Blog